Skateboard hardware is frequently disregarded and isn’t considered until the skateboard is put together. I recall placing an order for some excellent skateboard equipment but forgetting to include hardware. It was frustrating since I was eager to put up my new system but realized I needed to visit my neighborhood hardware shop.
Skateboard hardware should be 7/8′′ wide for normal 7-ply decks without riser pads. Hardware needed for 1/4″ risers and 1/8″ riser pads is 1″ and 1 1/8″. When a truck’s baseplate is thicker, choosing 1″ is preferable. Flathead countersunk bolts in sizes 7/8″ and 1″ are always effective.
I’ll keep things basic but want to cover typical hardware issues you’ll ultimately encounter and how to repair them in this tutorial. I’ll also show you different hardware sizes and when to utilize them.
Skateboard Hardware Size Chart
Based on my own experience, I created this chart. I tested the functionality of each of my skateboards and cruisers. When the size of the wheels exceeds 58mm and risers are added, there is no set protocol to follow. I made sure you had adequate space so your wheels won’t lock up.
|Wheel size (mm)||Riser size (inch)||7-Ply deck Hardware length (inch)||8-Ply or 9-Ply deck hardware lenght (inch)|
|49mm – 54mm||No risers||7⁄8″||1 1⁄8″|
|55mm – 56mm||No need if you ride trucks tight||7⁄8″||1 1⁄8″|
|55mm – 56mm||1⁄8″ if you ride loose trucks||1 1⁄8 – 1 1⁄4||1 1⁄4 – 1 1⁄2″|
|57mm – 58mm||1⁄8″||1 1⁄8 – 1 1⁄4||1 1⁄4 – 1 1⁄2″|
|59mm – 60mm||1⁄8″ – 1⁄4″||1 1⁄8″ – 1 1⁄4″||1 1⁄4″ – 1 1⁄2″|
Due to my riser pad recommendations for a skateboard, I stopped at 60mm. Anything beyond 1/8′′ risers is for cruisers and perhaps a few bowl skaters who want extremely carvy setups; skateboarders only require 1/8′′ risers in general.
I think some of the e-commerce sites, such as Tactics, Warehouse Skateboards, or Skatedeluxe (EU), are off and overly generic, thus my table is a little different from theirs.
I tested a variety of cruisers, wheels, and settings, and nearly always, even if you use 60mm wheels, you can get away with 1/8′′ risers. Your weight, truck height, driving preferences, and the toughness of your bushings all play a role in this.
If you enjoy carving on cruisers, go larger; nonetheless, this essay is about hardware and technical skating. In my next riser pad special, I’ll talk more about it.
Skateboard Deck and Hardware Dimensions
The length of your deck has no bearing on the size of the hardware. Even with an 8.0-inch deck, 7/8-inch hardware may be used without risers.
The same is true for an 8.25′′; there is no difference because the majority of decks are made of 7-ply maple. The Powell Flight and Santa Cruz VX decks are the exceptions, but even those decks function well with 7/8′′ hardware.
The exception to this rule is skateboard decks with 8 and 9 plies. It’s unclear why someone would choose an 8 or 9 plies for technical street skating unless they wanted a skateboard that wouldn’t break. Relocating on.
Does Skateboard Hardware Size Matter?
When you add risers or shock pads, the size of the skateboard hardware counts. The bolts might also flex on impact if they are overly lengthy and stick out too far. Additionally, grinding curbs or copings might get you caught and cause dangerous falls.
If your bolts are too long, there is just no way to pull off a crooked grind on a ledge. Bolts may protrude slightly; just make sure they don’t protrude beyond 1/8″. Since you can still install 18′′ risers without having to purchase more hardware, 1′′ is always a safe option.
They will also bend and sharpen, which will definitely put the mall robbers on notice.
How to Select Bolts for Skateboards
The size of your wheels affects the choice of bolts. For more clearance to prevent tire bite, you’ll need risers from (allegedly) 57mm and above. The void between the wheels and the deck is referred to as clearance.
Every arrangement is suitable with 1′′ and 7/8′′ bolts; the former will have an acceptable 1/8′′ protrusion. For skateboards with wheels smaller than 57mm, 7/8′′ is ideal.
Additionally, it depends on how loosely you skate. If you skate your trucks tightly, 58mm wheels may be used without risers. People who skate with loose trucks ought to think about risers.
Colors of Skateboard Hardware
Although they don’t actually matter in terms of performance, colors may be rather useful. I will admit that I enjoy placing a bright, sparkly object in front so that I can immediately distinguish between my skateboard’s front and back. In addition to serving a utilitarian purpose, the variety of colors available is perfect for people who want to take their skateboard customization to the next level.
A skater in my community has a small obsession with colors. He must have two reds and two whites in front in a certain design. He once snapped a few bolts, so I once had to repair his hardware. Luckily, I had his color on hand. I suppose that’s why they refer to me over here as “dad skateboard.”
I bought a ton of gorgeous colors that I purchased. Even though I skate at a later age, I absolutely enjoy the modern varieties that are available.
How Can Hardware Be Installed on a Skateboard?
Purchase the appropriate tools. No need for a skate tool if you have tools on hand. Depending on the sort of hardware you’re working with, all you’ll need is a 3/8 in (0.95 cm) wrench, a Phillips screwdriver, or a 3/8 Alan key.
My suggestion is to set your board on a table sideways first because it’s one of the simplest things to perform.
- Put all 4 bolts in.
- Use your hands to stop the bolts on the griptape side from moving.
- Connect the truck
- Get your tools and tighten the nuts one at a time.
Don’t use cordless drills. If you don’t know how to use them, you’ll peel the bolt’s head and be unable to tighten it.
Allen Bolts or Philips?
Allen bolts, in my opinion, are a superior option. When you attach your trucks, Philips bolt heads constantly corrode, and this risk is increased if you use a cordless drill. My experience with cordless drills is that while they do save some time, the Philips flathead is frequently damaged. In just one minute more time, my Silver skate gadget completes the task better.
Hardware for Skateboards to Consider
I can’t offer you a firm response, however I am aware that branded gear is quite expensive. Hardware from independent Philips is essentially worthless. If you frequently alter your setup, I would recommend sticking with generic hardware and avoiding branded items. Just make sure the nuts have a nylon ring.
Fireball is one company that makes high-quality hardware; you can see the difference when you hold one in your hand. In comparison to independent, they are heavier, remain put, don’t bend, and endure longer.
The greatest recommendation I can provide based on my experience is to get Allen hardware, as stated above. Most contemporary skate tools feature an Allen screwdriver, and they don’t peel out easy. They are less prone to come free and are simpler to attach.
You may choose your preferred brand, price, and color. Some companies sell skate wax, stickers, and even a subpar tool. Just choose what you require and make sure they coordinate with your present trucks and deck’s color scheme.
Some hardware brands, like Modus, are significantly thinner, which enables it to be placed nearer to the board.
It works, but you will feel them when you ollie or are just standing on your board, so make sure to obtain the appropriate form. Only use flatheads, and stay away from buttonheads.
The remainder of this ‘article’ discusses typical difficulties and issues that everyone encounters eventually. Better read on and get ready.
Skateboard Hardware Bolt Removal
Several factors may contribute to this. It might be corrosion, bent bolts, or stripped bolts (which typically happen when using electric drills). The simplest method is to just chop it off with a hacksaw.
Use an elastic band over top of the flathead and try to remove it if it doesn’t work as one of your other choices. Another option is to use a ratchet and 3/8 socket.
With the appropriate size Philips or Allen key, make sure you have a firm hold on the head. If it still won’t move, drill it, but use caution and little power.
Hardware Protruding Hardware protruding from a skateboard deck shouldn’t be a problem until your shoes get caught in the board when you’re flipping it. Your shoes won’t be torn even slightly, but I would still suggest fixing the problem before it becomes worse.
There may occasionally be a little piece of grip tape between the hardware and deck, making it difficult to properly insert them. Before inserting hardware, be sure to make holes. Grab a screwdriver, then flip it around a few times to pry the grip tape residue off.
Simply tighten the nut with the required (skate) tools and use a screwdriver to block the head from spinning on the other side of your deck. Always effective, but be careful not to overuse it. Neither too tight nor too loose is optimal. Just make sure your grip tape is flush with the trucks.
You’ll sooner or later run into issues if the hardware is excessively lengthy and sticks out of the vehicle mounting holes. As soon as possible, replace the hardware since it may flex, shatter, become trapped, or become razor sharp.
Skateboard with loose bolts
Using your skate tool, tighten the bolts and nuts to address this extremely typical issue. To stop it from occuring, Loc-Tite is recommended on Reddit. Although I haven’t personally tested it, it makes logical.
A periodic inspection of your hardware, as well as the axle and kingpin bolts on your truck, is also beneficial. When you’re ready to ollie a set of five steps, you don’t want your wheels to suddenly come off or a kingpin to break.
Is It Safe to Skateboard With Two or Three Bolts?
Always check to see that your skateboard is put up properly; there are legitimate reasons why you need 8 bolts and 8 nuts. You can ride a skateboard with two or three bolts, but you run the danger of breaking or deforming the other two bolts. When ollieing steep stairs, grinding curbs, or performing stunts with a lot of impact, it is not advised.
Depending on how hard you skate, you might be able to get away with it for a few hours. Hardcore skaters should always check their equipment, but beginners who pop a few ollies shouldn’t worry too much. Just be careful to have the issue resolved as quickly as you can. People in skate parks frequently have extras you can borrow, so ask around.
Skateboard Hardware Stores
Skate companies have outrageous costs, despite the fact that skateboard hardware is reasonably priced. You may get them for less money and superior hardware at your neighborhood hardware shop. Even though they may be nice, paying $10 for hardware is absurd. Quality varies between brands.
Make sure you obtain the correct size and the nuts have a nylon ring if you opt to visit Home Depot or any other hardware shop. Without the nylon ring, you would need to tighten your hardware after each session to keep the bolts in place.
How to Avoid Getting Wheel Bite
A quick workaround is to just apply some wax if you don’t want to install risers. This modification is more akin to a cruiser skateboard. I wouldn’t do it when you skate bowls because you don’t know where the wax will end up. It’s similar like tossing an imaginary banana and crossing your fingers.
In addition, be sure you purchase the proper hardware and install risers.
Skateboard Recommended Tools
I have two tools that I enjoy, but one in particular sticks out. The one I LOVE is really effective, long-lasting, and does the job unlike any other. The issue is that it is missing a re-threader. Only in this situation does my other tool perform well.
I think the Silver Skate tool is fantastic and would suggest it to everyone. It would be ideal if they could include a re-threader. only comes in a few hues, and it costs about $30.
Choose the re-threader in the image below on the right if you need one. Everything you need is in the Pig Skate Tool, although taking out the screwdriver might be a hassle.
Standard skate equipment also works; it just requires a little bit more work. Although they only cost around $7, they are rather delicate.
The fact that there are so many variables should have occurred to me far earlier than it did. In addition to hardware size and riser and/or wheel compatibility, other issues arose the more hardware I distributed.
Everything you need to know about hardware size, problems, shapes, and recommended practices should be covered in this page. Let me know if there’s anything I should have included. This article and the one that will come after it are closely linked to risers.